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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MICRONEEDLING & The Importance of After Care

Medical Needling, Collagen Induction Therapy, Percutaneous Collagen Induction or Dermal Rolling all refer to the process of using fine needles to puncture the skin at the dermal/epidermal junction to ultimately increases dermal collagen. How does this work? Well, it’s complicated and controversial. The theory is that creating micro punctures, tiny wounds, triggers the “wound healing cascade”. The release of growth factors, cytokines, platelets and ATP (adenosine triphosphate – cellular energy) production all coalesce in a complex pathway to build collagen. Dermal thickening is achieved as cell to cell communication improves and collagen is induced over the 28 day skin cycle. Yes, at 50+ I’ll have some of that please. Apparently I’m not the only one! Microneedling has blown up over the last 10 years and entered the DYI space. So let’s look a bit deeper before we put needle to skin.

The post microneedling wound healing and collagen production cycle is said to gradually improve the appearance of fine lines, superficial scars, skin tone, superficial pigment, and skin texture. But it is important to know this isn’t a one and done cosmetic treatment. Typically a series of 8-12 monthly treatments are recommended to achieve visual results. Medical microneedling (needle depth >.5mm), especially depths >1.25mm, should be performed by a licensed professional as at this depth you’re into the dermis and there’s a lot going on in these deeper layers of the skin. But given a treatment in a medical setting can set you back $250 to $500 and the number of treatments needed it can quickly become cost prohibitive for many. People are understandably seeking and exploring home needling options.

Home needling, in fact all needling, comes with risks of infection, hyperpigmentation, granulomas and scaring, especially with more aggressive needling depths. When needling beyond cosmetic depths (>.3mm per the FDA) a licensed professional should follow your progress. This is your best insurance for a good outcome. The conundrum is medical needle depth devices are readily accessible online and surprisingly not that expensive. There is no doubt the DYI movement is here to stay. So if you’re considering medical depth microneedling at home think twice. Book a consultation and a session or two with a licensed, trained provider to get step-by-step, hands-on instructions using your at home device. Eduction on infection control and proper techniques before you ever put needle to skin could prevent inadvertent skin infections and permanent skin damage. You may also discover your skin condition or medical status isn’t appropriate for medical microneedling.

You should also be aware of a recent trend toward shallower medical needling. Recent small studies have shown deeper isn’t necessarily better and deeper needling clearly comes with higher risks. But what about cosmetic (.2mm to .3mm) and nano “needling” (~.02mm to .2mm)? Do they work? Cosmetic needling is typically performed by aestheticians. In the US needle depth/licensing regulations vary slightly from state to state. Neither of these treatments are intended to penetrate the dermis or cause dermal wounding/bleeding. Rather, they’re often adjuncts to spa and cosmetic facials. They are designed to increase circulation, resurface the epidermis and exfoliate dead keratinocytes. “Nano-needling” isn’t technically needling. Nano pens and rollers are covered in pyramid shaped tips. As they are manipulated over the skin micro channels are created improve product penetration. An inflammatory response is not anticipated. Both cosmetic and nano needling give your skin that wonderful post-facial glow.

If you choose medical depth microneedling it is imperative to follow a strict post-skincare protocol. Following the routine your provider recommends will limit infection risk and improve skin healing. In my video I share my experience with medical microneedling and my post microneedling routine for scar revision.

Self Care Sunday Post Microneedling Care DAY 5

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MICRONEEDLING AFTER CARE ROUTINE:

Your skin will be vulnerable with open wounds for the first several hours (the exact timing is debated). Most skincare products are not formulated / intended to reach the dermis. The wrong product will irritate your tender, healing skin and potentially cause granulomas (though this is rare). Your focus is recovery and healing for the next two weeks.

DAY 1

Rinse with tepid water (if needed) & apply a high molecular weight HA & Growth Factor Serum formulated for post-microneedling
Schedule an LED therapy session if possible.
If using a home LED “face mask” cleanse it thoroughly with alcohol & let it dry prior to coming in contact with treated area.
LED panels or domes are preferred.
THAT’s IT! Open channels in the skin are vulnerable to foreign body granulomas when topicals are used right after microneedling.
If you MUST go outdoors: Hat & glasses MINERAL SPF if prolonged exposure. But, It is preferable to stay indoors and not apply any other product than your HA/GF post microneedling serum.

DAY 2 – DAY 5

(AVOID EXFOLIANTS, RETINOIDS & MAKE UP)

AM Routine:
- Gentle cleanser
- peptide and /or a growth factor serum
- LED (optional)
- Moisturizer
- MINERAL SPF
PM Routine:
- Gentle cleanser
- Growth Factor serum (EFG + Human Fibroblast Conditioned Medium are best)
- Vit C (lipid base Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate- optional)
- Moisturizer
- Oil w/ linoleic acid (optional)

DAYS 5 to 14

resume normal routine, avoid harsh exfoliating!

DAY 7 –

resume Vit A / Retinoids

DAY 15 –

resume AHA/BHA as needed

NOTE: The complete skin cycle takes ~28 days. The next medical microneedling treatment should not be scheduled prior to the completion of the 28 day cycle. Pre treating can keep the skin in an inflamed state, risking poor outcome and increase the potential for hyperpigmentation.

DEAR READER, My goal is to keep B50S blog posts fresh and current. I’ll update topics as I discover new information and as new studies are published. Be sure to re-visit B50S blog topics regularly to keep up to date on what’s new and up coming in beauty.

REFERENCES /RESOURCES:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2918341/

https://www.raps.org/news-and-articles/news-articles/2020/11/fda-finalizes-guidance-on-microneedling-devices

https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/fullarticle/1783057

The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling Third Medical Edition – Revised & Expanded ISBN 978-0-9920604-1-1Publ ication Date: December 201 7 2nd Print May 2019 3rd Print September 2020 Publisher: Acacia Dermacare LLC. For further trai ning, see www.needlingguide.com Contact: [email protected]