A friend recently ask me how does one go about choosing moisturizer? Ointments lotions, creams, oh my! “How do I choose one and what the heck are the differences?” I refrained from informing her that she had forgotten to mention gels, spritzes, oils, and serums!

Given the fact that I currently have about 20+ moisturizers on my shelf and 11 that I am currently trying it struck me that that perhaps she wasn’t the only one struggling with this choice. Just to clarify, I do not recommend you use 20 moisturizers at one time! Using two or three moisturizers chosen with purpose in mind are more than adequate per season. As a skincare freak, as my ilk are loving known, I should and actually do have sound reasons for choosing my moisturizer de jour.

Basically, if you know your skin type (the skin you were born with based on glandular secretions: Oily, Normal, Combo or Dry) you can zone in on your moisturizer(s) of choice and tailor them to the season. And yes, all skin types can benefit from a moisturizer, even acne prone skin. Also true, not everyone needs a moisturizer every day. But once winter rolls in and the heat goes on most of us will be reaching for some relief.

Essentially moisturizers are formulated with humectants, emollients and/or occlusives each with their specific role in maintaining, rebuilding and protecting your skin barrier. Basically (though I know my fellow skinthousiats may split hairs…)

Humectants – retain moisture by binding and drawing water to the skin hydroscopic organic compounds Examples: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, propanediol, aloe, urea

Emollients – smooth and soften the skin butters, oils, esters, lipids and fatty acids Examples: colloidal oatmeal, shea butter, jojoba, squalane

Occlusives – protect the skin barrier, preventing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) waxes, silicones and heavier oils Examples: petrolatum, dimethicone, lanolin, bees wax

Moisturizer formulations progresses in viscosity from lighter sprays, serums and gels to lotions, oils, creams then heavier balms and ointments with progressively higher percentages of occlusive ingredients. Skin types typically match this progression in their tolerance for moisturizer formulations. With Oily skin often responding best to serums and gels, normal skin to lotions and light creams, while dry skin appreciates more occlusive balms and ointments.

Layering in winter applies to both clothing and skincare. You will likely benefit from having several moisturizers in your skincare kit, especially in the winter months. Layering moisturizers can be especially beneficial for preventing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) hence avoiding cracked flaky skin. I have dry skin and typically layer a light oil (ie Squalane) or hyaluronic acid based spray under a cream or lotion throughout the year and up my game in the winter adding in balms and ointments. The key is knowing your skin type and building your kit accordingly.