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HOW TO DECIDE ON LASER, IPL OR ELECTROLYSIS?

ELETROLYSIS VS LASER HAIR REMOVAL

Looking for a permanent way to de-fluff? Trying to decide if laser, intense pulsed light (IPL) or electrolysis is best for you? It can be daunting when looking for permanent / semipermanent hair removal solutions.

Dr Charles Michael, an ophthalmologist, started using a “battery powered needle” to treat ingrown eye lashes in the 1870’s. From this evolved the modern forms electrolysis. Lasers came on the scene in the mid 1980’s followed by iIPL in the early 2000’s.

Most of us are familiar with laser and perhaps IPL due to the recent flood of at home “laser” and light devices on the market. Laser and IPL are forms of photo epilation. They are considered semipermanent forms of hair removal by the FDA. Electrolysis is the only FDA approved permanent treatment for hair removal. This is despite recent studies showing laser, especially long wave forms (i.e., alexandrite), to be equal if not superior to electrolysis. While researchers continue to debate the results it’s a good idea to educate yourself on your options.

https://youtu.be/WUDrapPh9QM

No matter which modality you’re considering you want to be sure to find a certified or licensed practitioner in your state. Not all states require a medical license or a licensed/certified practitioner to perform these modalities. If your state has few or no regulations be sure to find a practitioner with extensive training, experience in your modality of choice and excellent sanitation practices!

Understanding a bit about how these treatments work may also help you make the best decision for your particular skin and hair type. Laser and IPL both use light energy. Light is absorbed by the pigment, melanin, in our hair. It is then converted to heat which damages the base of the hair follicle (papilla) thus reducing hair growth. IPL’s light energy emission is more diffuse (multiple wavelengths) than laser and generally less effective. There are multiple types of lasers. To simplify, diode lasers are advised for lighter skin and alexandrite lasers for darker skin. Newer lasers have cooling technology to reduce pain. An so they should! My experience with lasers of the1990’s was OUCH! No thank you. I refused the 8 recommended torture treatments at $300 a pop and kept right on buying my disposable ShicksⓇ.

Lasers provides about 60 % reduction in hair growth while IPL’s effectiveness is about a 45% hair reduction. Since both light modalities only target the anagen, growth phase multiple sessions are necessary to achieve results. Maintenance sessions are necessary about every 6 to 12 months to see result over time. As your hair transitions through the anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting) and exogen (shedding) phases of hair growth ongoing treatments can be very effective. 

Electrolysis. There are three types galvanic, thermolysis and blend. Galvanic, the original/true form of electrolysis, involves the delivery of DC current to the base of the hair follicle (the papilla) via sterile needle or probe. This creates a chemical reaction where lye is formed by the heating of salt and water from our tissues, destroying the hair follicle. The probe must stay in the follicle for ~30 seconds, tedious and not a little painful. I am speaking from experience!

A second form of electrolysis (technically not electrolysis), thermolysis, was being discovered concurrently in the 1920’s and 30’s by several physicians using shortwave radiofrequency. The high frequency electric current causes heat energy; coagulation destroys the hair follicle. It’s quick, seconds vs the torturous 30 seconds with the galvanic method. It works best for individuals with shallow follicles and thin hair vs thick, course, curly hairs. 

The third form of electrolysis, blend, was patented in 1948 by Henri E. St-Pierre and Arthur Hinkel. This process combines both galvanic and high frequency currents. This solution addressed the limitations of galvanic with improved outcomes for course, thicker hair. Blend takes about 12 seconds per follicle. Due to less time in the follicle thus more efficient and less painful than galvanic. In addition, newer machines are computerized allowing for more precise control of electric currents.

Assessing pros and cons. Electrolysis is cleared by the FDA for permanent hair removal for what its worth. Recent studies indicate laser may be equally effective with less pain and treatments are faster. Newer longer wavelength lasers may be providing better outcomes with less discomfort. Lasers not created equal when it comes to lasting results. Both electrolysis and laser offer multiple options so definitely book a consultation first. 

The bottom line. Consider your individual hair type, skin color and willingness to engage in some trial and error knowing you may have to go for multiple treatments. Make a plan and plan a budget. Interview providers in your area with experience and appropriate state licensing/certifications if applicable. Schedule a free consultation. During your consult ask your provider to review the risks, your medical history (you may have a contraindications for electrical current treatment) and to explain their disinfection protocols. Be clear on your goals, get cost estimates and discuss pain mitigation options. Aftercare is important be clear on the protocols before you commit. Going to the beach the day after treatment may not be an option! Best wishes on your de-fluffing adventure which ever mode you choose! 

RESOURCES:

Meta-analysis of hair removal laser trials https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18027066/ 

Just Zap It. Electrolysis is a permanent alternative to waxing and sugaring, Maggie http://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1191176-january-february-2020/34?%3F=

Electrolysis for Hair Removal https://www.webmd.com/beauty/cosmetic-procedures-electrolysis#1

What Hair removal treatment is best https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/320329#what-hair-removal-treatment-is-best