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5 STEPS TO RETINOID SUCCESS: The Research & The Myths | How to Limit Irritation | When & How Do I Start?

Prevention is worth a pound of cure. Especially when it comes to fine lines, dullness and photo aging! If you’re very lucky you got this 411 in your 30’s and you’ve faithfully incorporated sunscreen & retinoids into your skincare routine ever since. But if you’re like me you woke up in your late forties smack in the middle of menopause, your face turned peach to prune overnight and feeling a whole lotta FOMO. Is there any hope? Yes, retinoids can help. But we’ve gotta get going!

Retinoids are definitely worth considering at any age if your skin goals include improving or preventing fine lines, skin texture, dullness and maintaining a bit’a bounce. 

The scientific data is in. Vitamin A addresses a plethora of skin aging concerns, full-stop. Newer vitamin A derivatives offer an entry point for all skin types and conditions (https://shoplist.us/beyond50skin). Finding the right retinoid and learning application tips so you can create a routine for life takes commitment. Let’s break it down into do-able steps.

STEP ONE: Believe the research. 

We only know what we know, right? And we know from decades of research that retinoids improve acne, collagen, texture and tone. 

STEP TWO: Don’t believe all the retinoid myths, do rejoice in their benefits!

Retinoids do not thin the skin. They thin the stratum corneum, our superficial, dead skin layer (keratinocytes). You actually don’t need a high prescription strength retinoid to see positive results. Unfortunately you wont see benefits over night either. Consistent use improves skin appearance over months and years, not weeks. You may be surprised to learn retinoids can be used on the delicate skin of the neck and under-eye. Initially you may need to buffer these areas with a moisturizer, limit their use to a couple evenings a week or switch to a less irritating formula.

Retinoids encourage cell turnover, stimulate collagen, promote blood vessel production, reduce inflammation and prevent transepidermal water loss (TWEL) creating skin luminosity and density. Do I hear applause and angels singing?  More good news. Sensitive skin types can use retinoids happily with careful product selection and a few application tweaks. If you have an inflammatory skin condition seek out a dermatologist. This is much easier now with online companies who are able to tailer a vitamin A journey just for your skin needs using compounded formulas. With all these benefits why isn’t everyone using them? Read on…

STEP THREE. Retinoids are irritating. You need to accept and manage this reality.

Retinoids can be irritating, especially if you start with prescription formulas.  Finding and acclimating your skin to vitamin A may push your skin’s irritation limit. You can manage this by knowing your skin type, skin conditions and learning application techniques. This way when you encounter irritation you can quickly respond to prevent a red flaky disaster and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). I’m speaking from experience after giving up and restarting Tretinoin twice. 

Think of retinoid shopping like shoe shopping. You buy sneakers with your shoe size and the activity in mind. You may need to break’em in before you run and you may get blisters.  Finding the right retinoid match is a bit the same. Expect some trial and error. You may need thicker socks, think moisturizer, to improve comfort or you may just need different shoes (retinoid).  Remember some irritation is expected but you can manage it if you anticipate it.

STEP FOUR: When to start a retinoid.

Ultimately it depends. If you’re in your teens experiencing acne breakouts adapalene may help. Adapalene/Differin is a synthetic retinoid derivative available OTC in the US. As a cosmetologist I always recommend scheduling a dermatology visit if you’re dealing with more than the occasional breakout at any age.

In your 20’s may be a good time to incorporate a retinoid into your skincare routine a couple times a week. Find a beginner retinoid and make it a goal to gradually work your way up to more active forms retinaldehyde or retinoic acid by your mid 30’s.  

Still flirting with the idea of retinoids in your 30’s? IMHO it’s past time to put your toe in the water. Try a retinol. If you’re nervous or have very sensitive skin try a retinol ester. Once your skin is acclimated gradually move up to retinoic acids (see retinoid chart below). By the time you hit menopause your skin will have built up some collagen reserves.

If you’re in the fabulous forty’s club, going on 50, there is no time to lose. We don’t have time machines but thankfully we have retinoids! As I mentioned I “stutter-started” Tretinoin at 50. I was tentative about asking my resident dermatologist for the OG anti-aging potion “Retin-A”. I felt so “hush-hush” and a little shameful.  Now I am so mad about having those feelings. The stigma, shame and secrecy around medical aesthetic procedures, having “something done”, claiming it’s only olive oil is just nonsense. I agree we need to embrace and celebrate aging, but beauty-shaming inflicts harm and needs to end. If you’re feeling a bit shy, I give you permission to get over it and get on with getting great skin. Have an honest conversation with your licensed esthetician or dermatologist. Be empowered to achieve the best skin you can at any age. 

STEP FIVE : How…Meet the retinoid family.

The retinoid chart below is organized from least to most irritant/effective potential. It will help you find your retinoid entry point. There’s a brief description plus clickable links taking you my top rated OTC recommendations.

PRO TIP: Start low (%) and go slow, a couple evenings a week. 

RETINOID DERIVATIVES (least to most irritating/effective)	DESCRIPTION	RECOMMENDATIONS (Clickable links)
RETINOIC ESTERS: – Retinyl acetate & linoleate – Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate  – Retinyl Palmitate – Retinyl Propionate	Newer, less irritating retinoid derivatives, several steps to convert to retinoic acid, fewest studies on their effectiveness for anti-aging benefits	https://shoplist.us/collections/11109
– Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate  (HPR) / Granactive Retinoid	Unique Retinoic ester – binds directly to retinoid receptors. Less irritating than retinol. Tolerated around eyes area at .2%. More RCT studies need.
RETINYL RETINOATE	Retinol – Retinoic Acid hybrid
RETINOL	Easily found in cosmetic formulas, requires two conversions to retinoic acid, well tolerated up to .03%,	https://shoplist.us/collections/11107
RETINALDEHYDE/Retinal	One conversion to retinoic acid, studies show it can be similarly as effective as retinoid acid	https://shoplist.us/collections/10984
ADAPALENE  – Differin	Synthetic retinoid derivative, regulates hyperkeratinization, desensitizes skin to inflammation, addresses acne and to a lesser extent photo-aging	https://shoplist.us/collections/10984
RETINOIC ACID Rx  – Retin A, Renova, Atralin, Refissa – Tretinoin (generic)	Most bioavailable retinoid for epidermal turnover, disperses melanin, 20 X more  potent than retinol. FDA approved, well studied.	Rx
TAZAROTENE Rx – Tazorac, Zorac, Avage  – Tazarotene (generic)	Synthetic retinoid, often used for psoriasis, acne vulgaris and less often for photo-aging	Rx
TRIFAROTENE Rx  – Aklief	Approved by the FDA in 2020 for acne, potentially less irritating, more tolerable on neck & décolleté	Rx
ISOTRETINOIN Rx – Accutane	High potency oral vitamin A prescribed for cystic acne	Rx

VITAMIN A CONVERSIONS: RETINYL ESTER   —–>   RETINOL   —–>   RETINALDEHYDE  —->   RETINOIC ACTID

Remember finding a retinoid that works for you is trial and error. You may need to work your way up and down this chart as you acclimate your skin to a new retinoid routine. Stop if you experience irritation. Repair your barrier, experiment with buffering application techniques (https://youtu.be/k_BN-JQgfyI), then restart at a lower strength or reduce to fewer evenings a week. You will find your sweet spot. Remember retinoids along with sunscreen are a lifetime commitment to your skin health and skin happiness.

Wishing you fun on your retinoid journey and living life to the fullest in your best skin every day. 

A NOTE ABOUT SUNSCREEN & RETINOIDS: If you don’t have a dedicated sunscreen, or several, you’re happy to apply and reapply daily it’s best not start a retinoid. Exposure to UV causes photo-aging and will limit if not reverse the benefits of using retinoids. Need help finding a great sunscreen? Browse my current favorite mineral and chemical sunscreens below.

SUNSCREENS –

Mineral/Physical : https://shoplist.us/collections/9256 Chemical/Organic https://shoplist.us/collections/9751